Toyota engine oil counterfeit differences in plastic

Toyota fake oil every day is becoming more and more difficult. Even if you have the original oil in your hands, you can’t immediately understand that this is a fake, and the only thing that can lead to doubt is this price. In most cases, a fake is cheaper (almost half), which bribes some owners of Toyota cars. But on the other hand, you do not need to focus on the low cost of oil.

This article describes the external differences of Toyota 5W-40 engine oil (08880-80375, 08880-80835) in a plastic canister with a volume of 5 liters and examples are given in the photo (how to distinguish a fake from a real oil in a can). These tips may also apply to oils 0W-20 (08880-83265), 0W-30 (08880-80365), 5W-30 (08880-80845), 10W-40 (08880-80825) и 15W-40 (08880-80805).

If you look at two cans next to each other, they are absolutely identical, but there are slight differences that are immediately invisible - this is the color and quality of the plastic, and the color and quality of the plastic cork.

The plastic color of the original oil is more brilliant than fakes. The color of the original cover is dark red, the color of the fake cover is light, scarlet.

Neck cap differences
Cork (original) is a dull color, and has a rich red color. In a fake cover is much lighter and glossy

If you look closely, it is possible to see a small distance between the protective ring and the neck on a fake, while on the original bank there are no gaps and gaps.

Ring joint
On the original, the joint is more dense

Cans are also different soldering front and rear and the appearance of the plastic itself.

If you look closely, the plastic structure in the fake is a bit grainy and as if rough with irregularities

Labels are almost identical, but there are slight differences, but they are visible only when examined in detail. For example, on the Toyota logo of the original oil, it is possible to consider small points that are not present on the fake, which leads to opposite assumptions, since the logo is printed more clearly on the fake.

But in some cases, this is not an indicator and everything can be vice versa

If you compare the adjacent plastic original emoticon and fake, and take a closer look, it will be seen that they have different printing, but it’s worth noting that this is not found on all banks.

Carry out a test: take a degreaser (! Not a solvent, not white spirit, not acetone, namely a degreaser), apply to a cloth and try to lose 3-4 times the front of the canister on the front label. If a fake - it will be erased and there will be a white spot. On the original bank - no more than three, everything will remain as it is

On the original, all the numbers and letters on the label are applied as if with a thin layer of varnish, which is noticeable when changing the viewing angle. The inscription 5W-40 itself seems to be double, and there is another layer of varnish, the inscription Toyota is the same. On the fake, this is not there, the label is flat and you can not feel any bulges and applying varnish on top.

Label difference
Original or fake - logo
Logo differences

The same goes for the batch code (barcode) with the batch number. On a fake, the code is applied on the front, on the original the code is applied ONLY on the back and looks a little different (on the original capacity until 2017, the code was applied on the front on the bend of the canister, but it was not on the fake on the front). The significant difference is that the fake code is erased if it is rubbed, the original batch code is not erased - no matter how you rub it, nothing happens to it.

On a fake, the numbers indicating the volume are not clear, and sometimes as if cut off. On the original, the numbers are clear and even.

The sides on the fake are smooth, on the original can there are traces of the apparatus that holds the can, respectively, exactly the same from the bottom
Number difference
Seam differences
But, there are also fakes on the market with traces of the machine (stamping). In this case, they can be recognized if the track ends above 4. On the original, it ends after 1 centimeter after the four, and below it starts from one and ends at the bottom, while forging, the joint from one ends behind the bottom seam. It is also worth noting that the seam on the original is even and more accurate. The oil volume corresponds to 5 liters, and the additional stamping is rectangular in shape both in the upper and in the lower part of the canister

The most important difference is the bottom of the can. The original canister is qualitatively sealed, without casting errors. The fake is very poorly soldered; casting error is visible. The rib in a genuine canister is thinner; on a fake it is much thicker.

The bottom in most cases is the main and significant difference
The bottom of the original has a smooth and neat seam; in a fake, the bottom is almost smooth. The fake canister at the bottom can also have additional round embossing, but this was mainly the case until 2017

We hope that the recommendations will be useful to you, and your Toyota will justify the reliability of the Japanese automobile industry. If you are not sure about the seller, carefully check the quality of the purchased products. Do not believe the cheap price, we are adults and we understand that this does not happen.

It is also worth noting (which is not unimportant to take into account) - the external condition of the can is not always a 100% indicator, so in this case, if there are doubts about the authenticity of Toyota oil, and if there is an original one, we recommend conducting an additional experiment, which is very useful if there is nothing to compare: pour the purchased oil into a container, place in a freezer at -20 degrees Celsius. If the oil is frozen and does not have the necessary fluidity, then this is a fake. It would be an even more vivid comparison if there is some original oil.